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Fine wine in Franschhoek
Dan Nicholl
Posted Tue, 30 Nov 2004
"Huguenot": French word meaning to cheerfully indulge in fine food, excellent wine, and the general sun-drenched bonhomie of laid-back vineyard living…
…or something to that general effect, if you’re in Franschhoek, South Africa’s own little corner of Huguenot France. An hour from Cape Town, and yet still a world away from anything approaching city life, the self-proclaimed capital of gourmet South Africa sits miles ahead of any pretenders (and it’s hard to think of any genuine rivals to the title).
There’s a growing commercial edge to the quaint rural innocence of the Cape’s own French village, but while tourist trade is unashamedly sought Franschhoek still retains enough authentic allure amidst the growing throngs descending upon it. It’s not a destination for the budget traveller, certainly, but whether you’re flying in by helicopter for Sunday lunch (an increasing phenomenon that isn’t universally appreciated by the locals), or looking for a great weekend away at a reasonable price, there are options aplenty in Franschhoek.
The wine route
The great staple of Cape escapes, the wine route is a marvellously indulgent way of touring the region. Whether it’s delicate appreciation of the ever-growing array of wines in the Cape, or the more student-like assault on as much vino as possible in as short a space of time, wine routing is a time-honoured method of exploring wineries in splendid locations.
And few are more splendid than the fields of Franschhoek, where mostly smaller vineyards line both sides of a most serene valley. Under bright blue skies (enhanced by a glass or two of wine early in the day) the quiet grandeur of the Huguenot valley is breathtaking, and the vineyards take full advantage of their stunning location.
On view alone, Dieu Donné and Mont Rochelle are just made for the camera. On opposite sides of the valley, they offer tremendous views of Franschhoek. Dieu Donné is the more panoramic of the two, being slightly higher up, while Mont Rochelle takes advantage of the rich colours of the valley that light up the surrounds of the vineyard owned by Rwandan Miko Rwayitare.
The wine doesn’t quite match the view in either case, although it would take some vintage to accomplish that. At Dieu Donné, try the Cap Classique (crisp and light, and it just feels right to have a glass of bubbly in hand while you take in the surrounds) or a pleasing new discovery, the Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, a new addition that is great value at under R30 a bottle. Mont Rochelle (whose label has changed to one disconcertingly similar to Dieu Donné) offer five pleasant but unexceptional wines for tasting. Rather focus on the photos.
Vrede en Lust, on the outskirts of Franschhoek, also offers a magical photo location along with a great little deli (cheese paradise). The selection of wines includes a superb rosé, the increasingly popular drink of choice this summer.
Further along the valley, the view from outside the Haute Cabriere cellar and restaurant demands attention — but not as much as the show that lights up the town each week; the Saturday morning cellar tour, hosted by Franschhoek’s most charismatic resident. Achim von Arnem is part of the local fabric — founder and cellarmaster at the estate, he’s a wonderfully eccentric wine-lover and raconteur, and guides delighted guests (frequently returning to savour the experience) through the Cabriere cellar.
On guard!
At R25 a head, it’s the best show in town, particularly if you’re lucky enough to get Achim and son Takuan in tandem, the son the regular target of his father’s gentle mirth. As well as tasting the excellent selection of wines
(including one of the country’s top Pinot Noirs) there’s a full explanation of how Methode Cap Classique (the local term for champagne, a Cabriere specialty under the Pierre Jourdan label) is produced. The show finishes with a flourish — sabrage, the extravagant art of opening a bottle of champagne with a sabre. Demonstrated in tandem with a visitor or two it's a fitting finale to end Saturday’s don’t miss offering in Franschhoek.
The wine is the real drawcard here though, and while not everyone’s an expert it’s good to know that standards, by and large, are high throughout the valley. Graham Beck have a small tasting room, but within its limited confines you’ll discover the superb Brut, as well as regular crowd favourite, Railroad Red, and one of South Africa’s finer chardonnays. A little further down the road, look out for L’Ormarins, a grand tasting room offering wines of a similar nature. Optima, the red blend, offers rich, smooth elegance that feels right at home in Franschhoek.
Optima finds a strong rival for top local red blend at La Motte, where the Millennium is a repeat performer. The 2001 is available for tasting — memories of the magnificent 1996 vintage aren’t quite matched and the current blend could do with a little more time, but it’s still possible to choke down a glass or two without too much trouble. If you’re more of a white wine drinker, stop in at Morêson, where both the sauvignon blanc (lots of fruit, plenty of summer grass) and the chardonnay (wooded) stand out, along with a particularly dry, but refreshing, Cap Classique.
And while you’ll pay between R60 and R90 for most top reds (and more in some cases), there are bargains if you look around. Dieu Donné’s Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon is one, as is the best value wine in South Africa (big call, I know, but show me a better buy): Chamonix Rouge. Sitting just below Dieu Donné, Chamonix’s best offering is also its least expensive, the R20 price tag a giveaway for a bottle of the easiest drinking red wine you’ll find. There's also some potent schnapps on offer, but the Rouge wins hands down.
With good wine, goes good food. Dan Nicholl's culinary tour of the Franschhoek valley will follow shortly, so check back here soon...
