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Leopard print is the new black
Kate Millar
Posted Tue, 20 Feb 2007
The winter wardrobe staple, black, got relegated to second place here on Monday as Italian designers predicted less gloomy climes ahead in leopard print or soft muted tones.
Sunny Milan — the third leg in a month-long fashion tour — saw Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana get the first of the Italian city's big name winter 2007-08 shows off to a roaring start.
Eye-catching gold-edged invitations in leopard print had set the scene, as the design duo sent out full-flowing 70s-inspired dresses in soft-focus leopard print to open and close their D and G collection.
And for in between, the hazy gold print cropped up on skin-tight trousers, blouses, shoes and bags, but Dolce and Gabbana, who unveil their main line here Thursday, never let it run too wild.
While fabrics were often transparent, the dresses were long, perhaps with a demure tie at the neck or long sleeves. Little flippy mini-dresses had a sweetness about them, while teeny shorts veered towards cheekiness and cuffed bell-bottoms added a mannish touch.
Bags also put in a strong performance, with styles ranging from a clutch, to pouchy or a boxy vanity case. But the star was a white and black patent oversize duffle-type bag almost as big as the model carrying it.
But die-hards of fashion's favourite non-colour need not despair — the pair offered a sleek black tuxedo and trouser ensemble, with a smart white shirt and bow tie, or black tailored shorts.
Giorgio Armani kept fans of clothes that spell womanly sophistication on side, including singer Tina Turner seated front-row at the Italian designer's show, with fluid silhouettes in faint hues.
Ice blue, putty, champagne, pale grey, antique rose and neutral tones lent an effortless refinement to the high-glamour frocks and roll-hemmed skirts all worn with twinkly skull caps and flat pumps.
He said in his style note that he had sought a look that was "contemporary, precise yet delicate". Details included stringy straps that laced, fanned or spanned the back. And he added long sleeves that stopped high-arm for bare shoulders.
Black also got a look-in, with cocktail dresses paired with woolly colour-striped cardigans, black and white striped skirt ensembles, or a cinched jacket with stovepipe trousers.
However, black, and generally a somber palette, was definitely back at Burberry Prorsum where designer Christopher Bailey kicked off his show with a dark belted coat, with gold zips and a rounded collar, worn with long black gloves.
Variations on short coats and long cardigans, tightly cinched at the waist, and also in midnight blue, brown or olive, were a key part of the collection that had a rock chick vibe.
Thigh-high boots were worn with a belted knitted tunic top over a short skirt, while a plain grey sweater dress was teamed with a three-buckle wide belt on models with long straight hair and pale faces.
High-shine and metallic-effect fabrics made a fleeting appearance such as for a silver-black, trench-like coat, as did soft emerald, yellow, sherbet pink, or a pale pink and grey leafy pattern.
At Just Cavalli, the eclectic mix of winter styles included little ice-skating skirts with big soft pleats, puff-ball hems, casual white pants and woolly top and a flowing silver metallic dress.
Milan fashion week continues its eight-day run on Tuesday with ready-to-wear collections for autumn-winter 2007-08 by Prada, Alberta Ferretti, Jil Sander and Bottega Veneta.
