A creation by Indian designer Manish Arora at London Fashion Week. AFP

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London Fashion Week got underway on Monday with shows from two top Asian designers heading down the catwalk amid simmering controversy over calls for stick-thin models to be banned.

The furore over hyper-slim models in Madrid has threatened to cloud the London clothes fest, where Giorgio Armani's show on Thursday is among the most eagerly awaited parades.

"I think it's a debate that will happen all in good time and all contributions are welcome," statuesque model Erin O'Connor told AFP, being diplomatically reticent.

Also speaking to AFP, American designer Ben De Lisi added: "I choose my models because they are beautiful and healthy and because they are naturally thin... as long as they are beautiful, healthy and thin, they will be on my catwalk."

Big names and officials will have a hard time avoiding such questions for the duration of the five-day, 50-show event, being held at the Natural History Museum in west London.

But on the catwalk, Indian designer Manish Arora was the undoubted star of the first day.

Models with faces painted like porcelain dolls strode down the catwalk with butterflies and flowers covering their mouths, faces and, sometimes, heads.

The clothes themselves were a dazzling mix of fresh lime greens and sky blues featuring extravagant sequined plant and animal designs.

Another Indian highlight, the Ashish show took place in autumnal Holland Park and was dominated by Egyptian style tunics and dresses incorporating dinner jacket features.

The designer, whose surname is Gupta, numbers Madonna and ‘Sex And The City’ actress Sarah Jessica Parker among his clients.

The De Lisi event attracted model Lizzy Jagger and a classic collection of clothes in blacks, whites, fuchsias and apples studded with $1.9-million worth of crystals.

Gharani Strok's parade was popular with footballers' wives and girlfriends, including Elen Rives, Spanish partner of Chelsea and England star Frank Lampard and a model herself.

There were celebrities on the catwalk here as well — Lily Cole, the elfin, redheaded teenager frequently mentioned in the skinny models row, received particularly supportive applause.

Pressure has been growing on the organisers to ban ultra-skinny models following restrictions imposed for Madrid fashion week, which also kicked off Monday.

Organisers of the Spanish event placed restrictions on "unhealthily thin" models — deemed to be those with a body mass index of below 18 — from appearing.

World fashion capital Milan is mulling a similar ban, according to reports.

BMI measures body fat based on height and weight; it is thought that a model measuring 1.75 in height would have to weigh at least 55 kilograms to comply with the stipulation.

The restrictions have triggered media speculation about whether models like Kate Moss, reportedly 1.68 meters and 49 kilos, and Cole could be affected.

British culture secretary Tessa Jowell said last week that the issue was not one for government to deal with, but went on to express concern over it.

Hilary Riva, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, which organises the event, has said that the organisation "does not comment on or interfere in the aesthetic of a designer's show" and council chair Stuart Rose has indicated he is not in favour of legislation.

AFP