Continuing with the theme of acknowledging the best of local fashion in 2008, this week's 'Top 5' pays homage to the excitement and thrill that certain of this year's standout designers have given me.

And while I cannot possibly acknowledge all the designers who have done special work this year, I am going to make a stab at it.

I have used three criteria for my selections. The first is based on the runway show and what sort of impact the designer made. The second is based on how the clothes are worn by actual, real-live people. And the third is based on international comparisons. Having attended London fashion week for many years, I can't separate this from what I see here in South Africa. And of course, my own personal taste will be a factor, but I do mean to stay neutral.

1. Stiaan Louw

The composition of the audience for the Stiaan Louw men's wear collection at the Virgin Mobile Cape Town Fashion Week was totally different from that attending any of the other 15 shows.

This was the first clue that something very special was about to happen. And then Stiaan's tribe of local heroes emerged.

Simple in tone but rich in form, this was a collection of black, white and navy garments that were impeccably constructed and explored themes around sexuality, androgyny, subversion and the dark underbelly of street culture. It was almost a Japanese allegory but in a very South African style.

Stiaan hand selected models from the trendy clubs of the main local centres — physiologically representative of a cutting-edge street style that seldom translates to the fashion runway. Except possibly in London's Hoxton environs — and that is what it reminded me of. It was global trend setting in the most powerful way, right here in South Africa.

And then I started to see how the boys wore the clothes. Getting hold of a Stiaan Louw garment requires the same "in the know" mindset as his show. And the translation of the skinny trousers, low-slung vests and quirky shorts by the boys on the street, was a great testament to the designer himself, as they rolled a cuff here and tied a sleeve there, individualising the clothing that was, itself, designed for a tribe of individuals.

This was a triumph of design genius meshing with the market for which it was designed. Perfect.

2. Heni Este-Hijzen

I will never forget twisting my neck till it actually hurt as I eagerly looked for the next model to appear on the catwalk of Joburg Fashion Week. I had never heard of this Heni chap but with his first runway look, he blew me away. And I thought, this is the guy that will make my wedding dress one day.

His love of Dior, both references from the past and the Galliano present, make his designs instantly classic. But it is all designed with a gothic edge that laughs with all the elements of what makes a woman sexy. I just loved it all and couldn't wait for it to hit the rails at Blackbeard and Dare around the country.

It translated surprisingly well from the opulence of the runway to the pared down production demands of the store rail, without losing the details and the essence of what made it fabulous. This is a massive testament to the vision and pragmatism of this talented young designer. I can't wait to see what he does for the winter collection.

3. Thula Sindi

Ah, Thula. His show was so exquisitely beautiful that it brought tears to my eyes — the combination of the music, the languid pace and the ethereal fabrication of his garments made my girlie heart sing with joy and desire. I wanted these beautiful dresses so badly, it ached.

I saw people in them and I wanted to rush up to them and demand to know why they were wearing my dress — and looking so beautiful in it. Thula has had the opportunity to show in many African countries this year which is in recognition of his talent as well as his enthusiasm — and next year is sure to bring even greater accolades that this.

But one day I will be lucky enough to own one of his dresses. One day before this talented designer becomes too famous. For famous he will be.

4. Gavin Rajah

It really bores me when people tell me that someone (often David Tlale) is the next Gavin Rajah. I am quite happy with the current one, thank you very much. Gavin is what is known as a class act. And a diva. Every fashion industry needs both and he is ours, in one world-class package. And he is around to stay.

His cruise collection at MTN Durban Fashion Week was my highlight. I loved all the nautical nods and the streamlined elegance. I wanted to dress my ladies in the garments and then go and drink G&Ts with them as the sun sets.

We all know that Gavin can do breathtaking evening dresses. This is expected. What was unexpected was the fun and frivolity combined with sophistication in his cruise collection. None of us, including Gavin himself, should be thinking about who is next on the throne, but rather enjoying the surprises and delights that are before us right now.

5. Colleen Eitzen

Fifth spot was, hands down, the easiest of the choices. I have currently got six Colleen Eitzen dresses in my wardrobe. Eighty percent of all my female clients have at least one Colleen Eitzen dress in their wardrobes.

Although not the same ones as mine. I don't really care what her runway show was like. All I care about is that I find myself hauling out the debit card at least every other month as another delightful dress, that makes me feel fabulous and flattered, appears on the rails of The Space.

And while these are my Top 5 designers for this year, I also loved the work of several others that I wanted to mention briefly:

Frans Kies did a mature and sophisticated summer collection of ladies wear that I would have purchased at least a couple of items from, had I known where to find them.

Craig Jacobs has led the market with sustainable fashion and I loved his collection at Joburg Fashion week. I mean to buy an item or two but just haven't got there yet.

Suzanne Haynes did a brilliant collection for the Virgin Finale in Cape Town. I have yet to see how it translates to the street, but I am excited to see what is next.

Artistic Soul did the most exciting indy men's wear at Joburg Fashion Week so hopefully he will start to penetrate the market soon.

Maya Prass is perennially fabulous and accessible and her clothes look divine on real women. Her collection in Cape Town was superb, as expected.

Tiaan Nagel, Black Coffee, Carducci and Kluk CGDT are all names that I will be looking out for in the new year to see if they will keep pushing forward and make the list next year, or not. 2009 is sure to be a fantastic year of fashion. I will keep you posted.

For more information on Robyn and her personal styling services, go to: www.robyncooke-styleguide.co.za