Having managed to grab a few minutes with Heni Este-Hijzen and his fellow designer, Kath, last night, I almost forgot to get any information out of them. You see Heni and I share a love of Dior, which became a point of much delighted mutual appreciation.

As I sat in the front row of his runway show, my thoughts had turned to classic Galliano creations and the small points of detail that have come to infuse his work since his move to Dior. Certainly my expectations of Heni were exceeded by the attention to detail throughout this collection, as well as the spectacle that was put on for our enjoyment — after all it was a show.

Marrying business and creativity

And yet, there is commerciality about this collection that is unexpected from a South African designer given to such creative expression.

Heni told me that it was a stint attending London Fashion Week earlier this year that made him see very clearly how to marry the business of dressing people and the creative outlet that putting on a runway show demands.

The dresses seen on his catwalk last night will actually be available in the Blackbeard & Dare stores around the country by the end of August for us real ladies to try for ourselves.

Inspired by a revolutionary Marie-Antoinette, in a modern day context, this collection doffed its cap to a latter-day French revolution through the use of red, white and blue to accent and lift the gothic black.

Heni had some concerns over the prolific use of black in a Spring/Summer collection, but felt that the use of the tricolour would enable him to life the mood without compromising his vision.

From my perspective the use of black was not actually that noticeable surrounded as I was by fashionistas dressed head to toe in standard issue black garb.

Sexy yet feminine

What struck me far more was that the collection was significantly infused with a sexiness of the sort that has kept femininity at its core — not just the obvious dominatrix references — but also the naughty nurse in the white and the brassy divorcee in the blue.

And then there was a quirkiness and playful tease element to the show, demonstrated through the use of the bows on the backs of the dresses and trousers and the magnificent top hats, adorned with feathers and net, worn at a jaunty angle.

This was a display of opulent high fashion, but with a love of dressing strong and confident women at its core.

It delighted the senses through the use of magnificent Turkish taffeta, feathers, silks, satins and lace. There were delicious cupcakes on every seat to feast on, and there was a giggle and a pause for thought nearly every time a model appeared on the runway.

With a timeless, almost vintage quality to the design, this collection passes the big fashion week test — take away the fanfare, and you are left with a completely wearable and enjoyable collection of items that would look great in any fashion-lovers wardrobe for years to come.

For more information on Robyn and for photos from Joburg Fashion Week, go to: http://styleguidecapetown.blogspot.com


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