So you think your Prada, Ferragamo, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace is not 'Made in China' but 'Made in Italy' under the watchful eyes of skilled craftsmen?

An Italian documentary called 'Schiavi del Lusso' (Slaves of Luxury) has uncovered the dark side of these exclusive brands. The documentary has unearthed the Machiavellian methods used to market these brands to a society of consumers who believe their social standing and individual identity will be complete if they are in possession of one these brands.

Multi-billion-dollar corporations who control nearly 60 percent of the market run the global market for luxury items. They are focused solely on profits in a market worth in excess of $11-billion.

Pulling the wool over your eyes

The perception that a 'Made in Italy' product represents skilled artisanship, in an environment where ethics, corporate social responsibility is a fundamental ingredient of the manufacturer's ethos no longer exists within these luxury goliaths.

The documentary showed mostly Chinese illegal and legal immigrants working long hours in poor working conditions producing luxury products in Tuscany. Mirroring the global made-to-wear apparel market, the luxury market can be divided into four categories.

• Out-and-out counterfeits sold in the informal economy.
• The murky area of labelling. This is where products are partly made in developing countries and final additions done in Italy. These items will then display a 'Made in Italy' label.
• Products made completely in Italy using illegal or legal immigrants working in poor conditions.
• Products made completely in Italy using skilled labour. These operations mostly consist of small family-run operations where the skill and dedication to the craft has been passed on from generation to generation.

Redressing the problem

Utilising cheap labour provides the opportunity for the companies who own the brands as well as the marketers and the retailers to produce these products for €20 and sell them at exclusive outlets for €400.

Italy is making strides to provide more information to consumers about the entire value-chain for luxury and apparel products. The President of the European Trade Union Federation for Textiles, Clothing and Leather, Mr Valeria Fedeli said "Italy is wanting more transparency and traceability in labels that will reflect the different sites and stages a garment (or luxury) product has gone through" before the items land on the retailer's shelves.

A number of smaller family-owned Italian craftsmen have set up an organisation called Centopercetoitaliano (100 percent Italian) to reinstate the association of style excellence, quality and ethical standards the 'Made in Italy' label once portrayed.