If the high ceilings, wood-panelled pillars, large chandelier and massive mural, not to mention being in one of Cape Town's finest restaurants, isn't enough to make you feel just a little awed, then simply imagining who had sat in your very chair, and what conversations, business deals, marriage proposals and other intrigue had taken place in this very spot is quite an appealing exercise.

It's this very sense of history and tradition that make both the Mount Nelson Hotel and it's flagship restaurant, The Cape Colony, stand out above the rest of the city's wide range of accommodation and eatery offerings, and is a unique selling point the staff and management are quick to capitalise on, as our friendly waitron made a point of filling us in on the long history of the restaurant.

For special occasions

All of which, of course, adds to the whole experience. Apart from the odd badly-dressed tourist, you get the distinct impression The Cape Colony is not simply somewhere to go for a quick nosh, but rather to celebrate a special occasion or treat yourself to a fine dining experience.

Judging by the fellow diners, ranging from hotel guests to Capetonians, including a certain property mogul dressed to the nines and obviously celebrating something big, eating here is a treat, and makes for a special night out. And the setting, complete with live music every night (harpist and pianist on this particular evening) is partly what makes the experience so special.

Long tradition of fine dining

The food of course, is the other, and the main reason to visit. It certainly manages to live up to the surroundings and keeps up the long tradition of fine dining at this restaurant.

Executive chef Stephen Templeton's menu is refreshingly short and simple, taking up one, admittedly large, page, but packed with more than enough choice. Given that most hotel guests, and therefore diners, are foreigners, there is a fitting focus on South African cuisine, with a whole 'African collection' made up of ostrich, springbok, even crocodile, to a chicken and prawn Cape Malay curry.

The famous lamb burger

However, for those not brave enough to try the local cuisine (pity them!) there are the standard international favourites, such as the fois gras starter and Norwegian salmon main. The famous lamb burger (at R95, one of the most expensive you're likely to encounter) is also there, should you wish to see how one can really dress up the plain old burger.

Roasted, marinated lamb rump

My dining companion and I both opted for the vegetarian soup of the day to start, washed down with glasses of Nederburg Brut sparkling wine ? bubbly seemed wholly appropriate, given the setting.

Mains

We then moved onto to the rich, hearty and tender oxtail (R105), which came on a delicious creamy mash potato with summer vegetables and a port wine jus; and the grilled marinated lamb rump (R115) which certainly didn't disappoint ? tender and full of flavour, it came with sweetcorn, red onion and minted parsnips.

While mains all come with a smattering of vegetables or garnish, my only complaint is having to order the optional side orders such as French fries or vegetables or salad, which really should come with the dishes. We ordered the delectable cream spinach and roast vegetables on the side (R22), which complemented the mains well.

Indulgent desserts

After this red-meat extravaganza, the thought of a rich dessert didn't immediately appeal, but temptation, as always, got the better of us, and we decided to share the chocolate cake dessert (R55), and fortunately so, because even though it was indulgently scrumptious, neither of us would have managed a full serving.

The wine list is comprehensive and well-thought out, showcasing the best local estates, and offering many of the wines by glass, which is what we opted for.

Overall, the service is sleek, silent and efficient, the atmosphere is one of understated luxury, and the whole experience makes for a very memorable occasion.