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LIFESTYLE: BEAUTY
How to get perfect skin
Will Malherbe
Posted Wed, 01 Apr 2009

Will Malherbe, National make-up artist for Bobbi Brown in South Africa, shares his tips for creating flawless skin...

Step one: Pre make-up

Skincare is essential for skin that looks and feels its best. Before applying make-up, cleanse and moisturise with the right formula for your skin's needs.

Diet, weather and stress can affect the skin on a daily basis, so adjust your skincare accordingly.

If you have a dry skin type, cleanse with a cream or oil-based wash that moisturises as it cleanses. For oily skin choose water based gel cleansers with oil fighting ingredients.

Moisturiser is the key to fresher looking skin — and it creates the perfect base for make-up.

For normal skin, use a lightweight moisturising lotion or cream. When skin feels dry or sensitive, use a rich hydrating cream or balm. For oily skin, choose an oil-free formula that hydrates and helps control oil production.

Hydrate the delicate skin around the eyes with a lightweight eye cream to ensure undereye concealer goes on smoothly and evenly.

Wear sunscreen or moisturiser formulated with an SPF of at least 15 year round.

Step two: Concealer

For the most natural look, choose yellow-based shades of concealer, foundation and powder. When a shade is skin-tone correct, it will blend flawlessly and look like skin.

To lighten dark circles, apply concealer under the eye, up to the lashline and on the inner most corner of the eye using the concealer brush. Smooth and blend concealer by gently patting with fingers.

For extra dark circles, start with pink or peach toned corrector, then layer on concealer.

Step three: Foundation

To find your perfect foundation shade, swatch a few shades on the side of your face and check the colours in a natural light. The shade that disappears is the right one.

Use your fingers or a make-up sponge to spot apply foundation where the skin needs to be evened out (around the nose and mouth where there's redness).

For full, all over coverage, use a Foundation brush to apply and bend foundation.

To cover blemishes, spot-apply foundation stick or face touch up stick in a shade that matches your skin exactly. Pat with your fingers to bend.

Step four: Powder

For crease-free, long wear, apply loose powder over consealer using an eye blender brush or mini powder puff.

Apply powder in your skintone-correct shade to the rest of the face using a powder puff or powder brush.

Cheat's tips from Bobbi Brown

When skin looks dull, use an exfoliant to help slough off dead skin cells.

Under eye concealer should be one shade lighter then your skin tone. If the concealer looks ashy, it's too light, if it looks too yellow, it's too dark.

Applying concealer on the spot next to the inner corner of the eye will open up your eyes and give you a fresh bright-eyed look.

It's a good idea to have two shades of foundation — one for the winter months and a slightly darker one for the summer when skin colour tends to be darker.

For a sheer, casual alternative to foundation, use tinted moisturiser to even out skin.

To add a warm tint to skin, use a bronzer brush to dust bronzing powder where the sun normally hits the face — cheeks, forehead, nose and chin.

If the skin feels dry, dust powder only around the nose and forehead.

All these make up tips (and more) can be found in Bobbi brown's new book — 'Make Up Manual'.